Chicken soup/broth is often made from bones and scraps, but in tweaking a family recipe, two families birthed a tradition that brings abundance.
story
Reverse Chicken Soup
Liora’s Chicken Soup is known in our home to have magical healing powers. We first had it when I was recovering from a crazy illness in March 2018, and Liora hand-delivered some when I came home from the hospital. She also sent some across the street to us when my daughter had a bad flu and she was asking for Liora’s soup.
Chicken soup is known for being something made from nothing; chicken bones and leftover vegetables turned into a wholesome broth. But after a fateful vacation together at a picturesque Pennsylvania lake house we turned that on its head and a new tradition was born.
One of the days we were there, Liora let her magical soup simmer while we had fun on the lake. Unable to find chicken bones at our remote location, we used chicken drumsticks. I asked her what she does with the vegetables (and boiled chicken, when she doesn’t have bones) afterwards. She told that she would often keep them in the fridge intending to use them, but would often forget about them, and there was always a bit of guilt when she’d end up tossing them.
As I imagined Liora’s grandma rolling in her grave, I pondered what we could do with the vegetables, and realized that several of the veggies there in the pot are common with our pav bhaji recipe; all we really needed was cauliflower, tomatoes and masala and we would be on our way to turning the veggies into another wholesome (and spicy!) family favorite.
Thankfully I had pav bhaji masala with me, because the kids and I were in the middle of a several week long road trip to a few spots in Pennsylvania and New York so I had packed certain key spices. [Jan 2024 note: no, we don’t always travel with pav bhaji masala, but we had just come from my friend Rachel’s in Pennsylvania where I had promised to make some.]
And just like that, a new tradition was born. Each time we make Liora’s chicken soup from her grandmother’s recipe, we turn the vegetables into multiple meals worth of pav bhaji (along with buttery, toasted brioche buns), and turn the chicken drumsticks into an Indian-spiced pulled chicken (with flaky, delicious parathas).
Reminiscent of the hanukah story of the oil lasting for the lamp for more nights than anticipated… this chicken soup just keeps on going.
music
Andy Statman – Jay Gandhi Connection
Just like the tradition and meals captured in this portrait, The Andy Statman – Jay Gandhi Connection was also born of collaborations here in Brooklyn: a musical collaboration between legendary Andy Statman and incredible Jay Gandhi, Ehren Hanson and David Ellenbogen.
Their music draws out the magic at the crossroads of Indian classical, Jewish, and American roots music, not unlike the new tradition captured here does, so it’s a perfect pairing. I would also venture to say that both are equally soul-nourishing, so press play right away!
May we suggest the playlist as the chicken soup cooks, and the YouTube set when it’s time to make the pav bhaji and pulled chicken? The video would also make a nice post-dinner, virtual show.
Thanks to the Jalopy Theater for capturing and sharing the below video recording of their July 2021 live show (I was there!), and so many other awesome shows.
Avid fans (do we have any of those yet?) might recognize Jay Gandhi elsewhere in Cultures Capsules history. We have been fans of him even before The Court Series / Cultures Capsules collaborations. And you might also remember that we cooked up a storm for the aforementioned 2020 streamed Ragas Live Festival, when the pandemic forced it online (including recipes submitted by performers Toko Telo from Madagascar, and Abhik Mukherjee, originally from India). And in a final connecting of the dots: Liora was one of the lucky friends to try some of these dishes that we hand delivered on the musical breaks!
If you’re in Brooklyn, you can catch them live at Jalopy and catch Andy and his Trio at Barbès.
recipe
Liora’s Chicken Soup
It all starts with the chicken soup, with it’s magical healing qualities (according to my daughter). Once you have the soup to enjoy, the “leftovers” from this version of Liora’s family recipe are turned into two additional dishes: Pav Bhaji and Indian-spiced Pulled Chicken.
Liora’s family (and mine!) love this soup with shkedei marak (“soup almonds” aka Israeli croutons) if you can find them. They can be hard to find, so Liora’s grandfather’s matzo balls are a great addition, or just make fresh challah (Liora’s recipe here).
Liora’s Chicken Soup
Equipment
- a large pot
- tea strainers for bouquet garni helps to keeps herbs contained
Ingredients
- 4 lbs drumsticks, excess skin removed ~15 drumsticks (or 5-6 lbs chicken bones, traditionally)
- 1 med. celery root ~1 softball size
- 1-2 parsnips ~2 cups
- 6-7 med. carrots ~3 cups
- 1-2 potatoes ~ 1 russet or 4 medium red
- 1-2 onions or leeks (or both) ~1 cup
- 1 full bunch fresh dill sprigs ~1 cup
- 1 full bunch fresh parsley sprigs ~1 cup
- 1 inch cube fresh ginger root
- 5-7 whole peppercorns
- 1 tbsp salt
- 1 pinch sugar
- 12 cups water, estimated
Suggested Accompaniments
- mini-croutons if you're lucky enough to have an Israeli grocer nearby
- challah Liora's recipe here
Instructions
Original Recipe
- In a large pot, arrange herbs at bottom and then chicken + vegetables (all cubed very coarsely -large pieces are fine here). If using bones you can "fill" bones with vegetables to use less room in pot.
- Barely cover with water (around 11-12 cups). Let boil and immediately after boil reduce to smallest flame. Spoon out foam as it appears. Leave in very light simmer for about 2-3 hours. Separate chicken and vegetables (except onions) into separate containers and strain liquid into its own pot or container. Discard the herbs, peppercorns & ginger, and eat the yummy onions as a side dish.
- The next day you can spoon out Schmaltz (white layer on top) and keep for other things. If eating on the first day it might be a bit too oily, but the oil seems to be going to the top so try to serve from the bottom of the pot. 🙂 Another method is to serve after sifting through a tight strainer with a piece of paper towel on top.
Meghna K's Updates If You Plan to Make Pav Bhaji & Indian-Spiced Pulled Chicken
- Prep: if you intend to use the boiled vegetables for Pav Bhaji, put the herbs in large tea strainers to make separating them easier later. See notes below for details.
Notes
recipe
Pau Bhaji From Soup Castaways
Of course this recipe would would no longer be vegetarian like traditional pav bhaji, but if you are making chicken soup, that is probably not a problem.
Post-Chicken Soup Pav Bhaji
Equipment
- large pot
Ingredients
Boiled Veggies From Liora's Chicken Soup
- potatoes, carrots, parsnip and celery root, all coarsely mashed together
Pav Bhaji Ingredients
- 3 tbsp ginger garlic paste
- 1 large head of cauliflower, in 2 inch pieces
- 1 big green pepper, finely diced
- 1/2-1 jalapeno, de-seeded and finely diced optional
- ½ tsp turmeric
- 8 tbsp butter, divided
- ½ tsp chili powder
- 6 tomatoes diced small
- 1.5 tsp salt or more to taste
- 4 tbsp Pav Bhaji masala or more to taste we like 5 or more
- 1 pint frozen peas optional
Serve With
- Brioche Rolls
- salted butter to toast the buns
Garnish
- red onion finely diced
- cilantro chopped
- lime wedges
- butter
Instructions
Prerequisites
- Discarded vegetables from Liora's Chicken Soup! Just the potatoes, carrots, parsnips and celery root (not onions).
Prep
- If you do not keep ginger-garlic paste in the fridge, make a paste in a 1:1 ratio by volume). Wash and dice peppers.
- Add an inch of water and cauliflower to a saucepan, and bring to boil. When boils, drop heat and simmer, covered, until cauliflower is very soft. Coarsely mash it up right into the cooking water and keep aside, warm.
- If your soup veggies have been in the fridge over night, warm them up and mash them, and keep aside.
Make Pav Bhaji
- Set a large pot to medium heat. When hot, melt 4 tbsp butter and when foaming subsides add the green pepper and jalapeno. Cook pepper, stirring frequently until brown.Meanwhile, chop tomatoes and keep aside.
- When the pepper is soft and begins to brown (be patient: can be 15 mins or more), add ginger garlic paste and sauté for a few minutes until fragrant. Then add chili and turmeric and sauté again. Add the chopped tomatoes to the peppers and cook until the vegetables begins to meld into one another, adding a bit of water if it begins to stick to the pan.
- Add al the mashed vegetables to the pot with the peppers/tomatoes and combine. Mash a bit more, as needed.
- When the mixture begins to boil, lower the heat and add Pav Bhaji masala, remaining 4 tbps of butter (or more!). Simmer for 10 mins and add peas. When returns to simmer, taste and adjust salt, Pav Bhaji masala, butter and salt as needed.Meanwhile, if you plan to eat it right away, prepare the garnishes. If not, and you can let it sit for a while after that, you will be rewarded for your patience with a Pav Bhaji that will deepen in flavor.
Enjoy
- Just before mealtime, prepare the toasted pav (they are best freshly toasted). Cut the rolls (if needed) as if you were making a sandwich. Heat a nonstick pan to medium, melt butter in the pan, and place the rolls cut side down onto the melted butter, fitting as many as possible. Cook turning to toast evenly to a nice golden brown.
- Serve immediately with the Andy Statman – Jay Gandhi Connection on the speakers, and garnished as noted.
recipe
Indian-spiced Pulled Chicken
Indian-spiced Pulled Chicken
Ingredients
- ~4 cups chicken, boiled, cooled, and removed from bone All chicken left over from the recipe for Liora's Chicken Soup
- 2 cups onion, finely diced (~1 medium)
- 1 cup tomato, finely diced
- 2 small spicy green chilils, de-seeded and diced optional. careful not to touch your eyes!
- 3 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
- 3 sticks cinnamon, broken into several pieces
- 12 whole cloves
- 12 whole cardamom pods
- 3 tsp coriander powder
- 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
- 1/2 tsp chili powder (or more to taste, especially if yours is US-bought). optional
- 1 tsp salt will also depend on how your soup was seasoned / how the chicken was cooked.
- 4 tbsp sunflower oil
- 20 whole curry leaves (dry or fresh)
- 3 tsp fresh lime juice ~ 1 lime
- 1 cup hot water
Serve with
- 16-18 cooked parathas (or other flat bread)
- 2 cups (loosely packed) Cilantro, chopped
- 1 lg red onion, sliced into thin arcs
- 2 limes, cut into wedges
- 2 small spicy green chilils, sliced into very thin rounds optional
Instructions
Prerequisite
- Liora's Chicken Soup! Or 4 lbs worth of boiled, bone-in chicken.
Prep
- Remove chicken from bone and keep aside, (reserving bones and cartilage for bone broth or another round of soup, if you can!). Wash and chop onion and tomato. Prep whole spices (cloves, cinnamon, cardamom) in a small bowl, and ground spices (coriander, turmeric, chili and salt) in a separate small bowl. Have curry leaves, ginger-garlic paste and lime juice at the ready. Set water to boil, and when boiled keep aside.
Cook
- Tadka (temper the spices): Heat a large, heavy bottomed sauté pan to medium heat. When warmed, add the oil. When oil has heated, add the whole spices, tossing the pan a bit to move/turn the spices, careful not to let them scorch.
- Cook the base: When fragrant, add the onions and stir to coat. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until they soften. When soft, add the curry leaves, and continue to cook the onions a few minutes longer, until they begin to brown. Add green chili and stir to combine, cooking for one minute. Then add ginger-garlic paste, stirring to combine and cook for a few minutes, until fragrant and begins to start to stick to the pan. Add the dry spices and stir to combine, again cooking until fragrant, then quickly add the tomatoes and any juice. Stir to combine well, and using the liquid to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Continue to cook until it all cooks down a bit and melds into one uniform mixture, adding a teaspoon of water when it seems to be drying out and/or sticking to the bottom.
- Fry the Chicken: When the vegetables have melded and cooked down, add the chicken, lime juice and a 1/4 cup of hot water. Stir to coat and continue to break up the chicken as it warms and begins to fry. When water is nearly gone, taste and adjust seasoning. adding hot water if needed to prevent sticking as flavor is tweaked.
- Serve: Serve immediately, with hot parathas, and the above accompaniments. We love to eat it like a taco, layering meat, onions, chilis and cilantro onto the paratha and folding to eat. Mmmm. my mouth is watering and I just may need to make this tonight. We hope you enjoy it as much as we do.
add link to challah, too.
recipe
Liora’s Grandfather’s Matzo Balls
Here’s a bonus, as another option to enjoy with your soup! Commonly associated with Jewish holidays, Matzo balls are actually enjoyed in soup all year long.
When Liora wants to make matzo balls to enjoy in her soup, she opts for her grandfather’s recipe because he added more matzo meal, resulting in a heartier orb.
Liora’s Grandfather’s Matzo Balls
Ingredients
- 1 1/4 cups matzo meal (no salt)
- 2 tbsp vegetable opil
- 2 tbsp water
- 1/4 tsp baking powder
- 1/2 tsp salt (plus more for salting cooking water)
Instructions
- Fill medium pot with water and set to high to allow to come to a a boil.
- Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, mix all ingredients. Using wet hands, make small balls (golf ball or smaller! they do expand when cooking), and keep aside until all balls are shaped.
- When water boils, add matzo balls carefully (don't splash yourself!). Then cover and let boil on medium for 40 mimutes. Drain and serve with soup (but keep separate until serving).