Et voilàthe 2023 cubes for May 7, 2023, the day we jazzfested from Paris. Cubes are the at-a-glance schedule of the fest, showing all the stages on one page per day.
Parisian Punchbowl Sazerac
A hit from our “Dans Les Roux” event, we had to make it again, but I had to adjust it for what we had available here in Paris. I couldn’t find Herbsaint nor other Absinthes (but then it clicked that actually Herbsaint was developed from the pastis and absinthe that J. Marion Legendre tasted when stationed in Paris and wanted to bring back to New Orleans. So, we simply used some Richard pastis, instead.
And there you have it, laissez les bons temps rouler!
Parisian Punchbowl Sazerac
A boomerang back to Paris. The Sazerac was born in New Orleans using cocktail mixers from France. Being in Paris, we used ingredients available here.
1ice block too fit serving container
20ozWoodford Reserve Rye
30dashesWoodford Reserve Spiced Cherry Bitters
10lemon peel stripsor orange/clementine, or both
Make Ice Block – To keep your cocktail cold without watering down the drink, make a block of ice at least 8-10 hours ahead so that it freezes solid. think about the size of your punch bowl or serving pitcher and make the ice so that it fits within it. Leftovers container or bowl for punch bowl, or something long and skinny for a pitcher.
Simple Syrup – If you don't have it on hand, make some simple syrup and leave it to cool.
Mix the Batch Cocktail
In a large pitcher (preferably a ball glass canister), pour in the Rye, simple syrup and Pastis. Add the bitters. Stir and taste per your liking. Put in the fridge until ready to serve.
Make the lemon peels and keep aside in a serving bowl, covered in the fridge until ready to serve.
Put the ice in the desired serving vessel. Stir or gently shake the cocktail mix and pour over the ice. Place the serving cups, citrus peels and additional ice cubes nearby.
To serve, put one citrus rind in the glass and pour over the drink. It might be wise to note to guests that this is a deceivingly strong drink. Some may want to water down with ice cubes. But the beauty of the punch-bowl style is that your guests can enjoy it at their own speed/taste.
A family favorite any time of year. It’s definitely better to make in advance as much as possible, and it’s delightful with a fried egg for brunch, if you are lucky enough to have any leftovers!
In Paris, my local butcher didn’t have any ham hocks for me. He recommended epaule (shoulders), which worked, but that was more meat that I think we needed. For pork shoulder, instead of boiling it like the hocks, I browned it well on all sides, and then kept it aside, using the same pan to start cooking the beans. After about 20 mins of stewing the cooked beans with the other ingredients, I added the pieces of pork and let it continue to cook over low heat for the remaining time.
Satchmo’s Red Beans & Rice
We adapted this from "Pop's Favorite Dish" that we came across on the WWOZ website. Our main difference is that we completely re-wrote the instructions to be much easier to follow, but we did also add more veggies and decrease the ham hocks slightly due to what was available.
Put the ham hocks in a large pot, add water until covered, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook for 90 minutes, adding water as needed to keep them covered.
Meanwhile, chop the onions, pepper, garlic and salt pork.
When the ham hocks are ready, pour off both the cooking water of the ham hocks and the the soaking water, and combine the ham hocks and beans in one large pot. Add salt pork and fresh water until the the pork and beans are covered. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, and cook for 90 minutes.
Add the onions, green pepper, garlic and dried peppers, and ½ tsp of salt to start. Bring to a boil on high, reduce to a simmer, and cook 3 hours more, adding water to keep mixture covered in liquid and never dry.
Taste and adjust salt. You might be tempted to add other spices, but try to refrain and do it Satchmo’s way.
Serve with piping hot long grain white rice, maybe some Chrystal hot sauce, and definitely some Satchmo on the speakers.
I included this video on the portrait for our —, but it is too good not to include again.
Chicken & Sausage Gumbo
It was fun to make gumbo in Paris and discuss how french cooking techniques melded with those from other parts of the world, along with new ingredients and evolved into the cuisines we know of as Cajun and Creole. There are entire books written on this topic, of course, but even us amateurs can observe the connections and enjoy the results.
To adapt for France, I had to find different sausages, but otherwise we followed the recipe. New Orleans has their beloved Andouille Sausage, but it is not the same as the Andouille or Andouillette we find here in France. For starters, the New Orleans version is smoked. Beyond that, I need to spend some time researching the evolution to the version that we need to make a true gumbo.
In the meantime, I used saucisse fumée d’Alsace which along with some Epelette and black pepper, gave a nice approximation. I bought it at La Grand Épicerie, Paris.
Chicken and Sausage Gumbo
We cooked the below version from Chris Wells' recipe featured in the WWOZ cookbook That Sounds Good! for our "Dans les Roux" event on May 7, 2022.
CourseBrunch, Dinner, Lunch
CuisineCajun, Creole, New Orleans
Roux + Gumbo
16ozandouille sausage, cut into 1/4" rounds
2cupscooked chicken, in bite-sized pieces
2cupsonions, finely diced
1cupcelery, finely diced
1cupgreen bell pepper, finely diced
1/2 tspcayenne pepper
3cupsfrozen, cut okrawe would do 4
1/2cupgreen onions, sliced
1/2cupfresh parsley, chopped
cooked long grain rice
fresh parsley to garnish
green onions, choppedoptional
Crystal hot sauce
Wash and chop all of the vegetables, and prep the remaining ingredients (particularly the stock and browned sausages) to have at the ready.
Roux + Gumbo
As with any roux, prepare yourself to be stuck at the stove for at least 45 minutes. Put some good New Orleans Tunes on (our "Dans Les Roux" playlist is here), and get a glass of whatever beverage is going to put you in the best mood for dancing while stirring (and stirring, and stirring). Depending on the time of day, this chef is probably doing red wine or Grady’s New Orleans style iced coffee (with milk and maple syrup, of course).
Heat a heavy-bottomed pan to medium. When hot, add the butter. When the bubbling subsides, add the flour and stir vigorously with a flat-head wooden spatula until well combined. Continue stirring until it is at least the color of peanut butter, noting that it will continue to cook a bit darker in the next step (also see note below).
When your nice brown color is reached, add the diced vegetables and garlic, continuing to stir until the vegetables begin to melt into the roux (about 20 minutes). Then add the salt, spices, herbs and sausages, and cook for 5 minutes.
Add 5 cups of the broth (to start), bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer for one hour, then add the chicken and okra, and simmer gently for 15 more minutes. Add broth whenever it is getting too thick or sticking to the bottom of the pan. The longer you wait to eat it, the better it will taste! But we don't blame you if you want to dive right in.
Put a rounded scoop of hot, cooked white rice in the center of a bowl or deep dish, and spoon the gumbo around it. Garnish with chopped parsley, and pass some Chrystal hot sauce.
Aside from not needing any extra reason for making these ridiculously good treats, it was extra fun one to share in Paris because it highlights another evolution of a French tradition in New Orleans. In France, Pralines refer to the pink candied nut, a specialty of Lyon. It is often found in brioche or the famous Tarte à la Praline. That said, the word praliné refers to the candying of nuts generally. One can praliné and kind of nut or combination there o, on a stovetop, with sugar, stirring rapidly until there is a perfect combo of caramelized sugar and toasted nuts. Process your praliné-d nuts into a paste and blend it with vanilla pastry creme and you have the filling for my favorite Paris-Brest.
Also, Oui, c’est vrai that two of the ingredients needed here are not easily accessible in France: brown sugar and vanilla extract. If you are in Paris, you can head over to The Real McCoy, but if not, unfortunately I cant guide you further. We have not yet experimented with cassonade nor other versions of vanillla.
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