Our weekly “À Table”dinner series gets its name from the mealtime call to the dining table. Since 2018, we have invited friends new and old to share a meal focusing on food, music and traditions from various places in the Francophone world. It has proved to be a fun way to connect with friends and practice our spoken French. Here on our site, we share portraits of some of our favorite meals so that you can easily do a version of the same chez vous Bon Appétit!
story
Classics
As we prepared to wrap up our weekly dinner series for the summer I was determined to cook two classic French recipes that I had been, well, not so much as avoiding, as waiting to be ready for the challenge. Those two were the incontournable (“unmissable classic,” as it reads on many a french menu) Coq au Vin and Boeuf Bourguignon.
Many a chef uses this recipe as a measure of their cooking prowess. It is even a big part of the plot of the Julie and Julia movie. It has long been on my list to try, but I kept pushing it off until finally I had a craving for it that I couldn’t shake. I made it the day before an À Table dinner (to let it gloriously deepen in flavor). I am SO glad I made a double batch so that we could have it as a family a few days later, and also tuck some in the freezer for some other harried evening.
A classic French dish, here we have paired it with classic Chanson Française. Get that on the speakers and get cooking! It’s not a quick dish, but it is so well worth it.
music
French Chanson
In addition to some nice red wine, you need some good music on the speakers to help you through this time-consuming dish!
We decided on a collection of our favorite French Chansons from the 1950s, the decade when Julia Child would have been perfecting and documenting her recipes for her first cookbook, “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,” which was finally published in 1961.
This free playlist contains our personal favorites from our favorite chanteurs et chanteuses français(e)s who were popular at that time. I cannot claim each song was a hit in the 50s, but but they are certainly have the feel of what could have been on the radio or on a turntable.
recipe
Boeuf Bourguignon
This is based on Julia Child recipe, but based on available ingredients, my desire to double it and a few whims (and I hadn’t even yet received Bocuse’s blessing to take liberties!). I literally can’t wait to eat it again, and just typing out this portrait is a kind of torture to relive it without re-tasting it.
On its face, it doesn’t seem to hard, just brown the meat, cook some base veggies, pour in wine and broth and then let it cook in the oven for a couple hours. But two of the ingredients could actually be side dishes of their own and need to be prepared separately and then added to the beef: Oignons Glacés à Brun, and Champignons Sautés au Beurre. The first time I made this, I didn’t realize that (rookie mistake not to first scour the recipe!), so I have re-written the full recipe to include when/how to make those two dishes to make best use of your time.
Beef Bourguignon
Equipment
- Large Dutch Oven (at least 7 quarts for this double recipe), 9 quart would be better.
Ingredients
- 14 oz lardons or pork belly not smoky or maple bacon!
- 6 carrots, peeled and sliced into rounds
- 2 medium yellow onions, sliced evenly thin
- 5 cloves garlic, minced
- olive oil
- 6-7 lbs beef (rump pot roast or chuck pot roast) in 2" cubes don't forget to ask your butcher to cut it!
- salt
- pepper
- 4 tbsp flour
- 6 cups full-bodied young red wine, divided (see notes) about 2 bottles
- 5 cups beef stock, divided
- the blanched bacon rind
- 2 tbsp tomato paste
- 1 tsp fresh thyme
- Oignons Glacés à Brun recipe here
- Champignons Sautés au Beurre recipe here
Serving
- boiled potatoes or hot buttered egg noodles
- fresh parsley for garnish
- a nice red wine see note
Instructions
Prep Veggies + Pork
- Wash and chop carrot and onion for sautéing with meat. Mince garlic, and prep remaining ingredients.
- If using salt pork, cut off the rinds and cut remaining pork into small sticks 1/4" by 1 1/2". Simmer in 2 quarts of water for 10 minutes. Drain, dry and set aside, separating rinds from lardons.
Sear Beef + Cook Aromatics
- Put on an apron (if you haven't already, and consider wearing goggles (kidding). The long process of searing the meat will lead to fat splattered everywhere, like on your wall, glasses, and clothing. Preheat oven to 450F.
- Using paper towels, dry (damp meat will not brown!) the first round of beef (5-7 pieces, so as not to crowd the pan), and heat a dutch oven to moderate heat. Add oil and sauté the lardons for a few minutes until browned, remove to a side dish, leaving fat in the pan. Add olive oil, and when hot, sear your first round of beef. Brown it on well on all sides, and then put it aside in a large bowl, sprinkle with salt and pepper and keep covered while you sear the rest of the beef. Dry the next batch and sear, continuing until all the beef is well browned.
- When beef is browned, brown the sliced carrots and sliced onions in the same fat. When done, pour out any sautéing fat if there is a considerable amount remaining.
- Now we want to crust the meat a bit with flour. In layers, add the beef and pork back to the dutch oven, sprinkling the flour and toss a bit to get a light dusting on the beef. Put in the hot oven for 4 minutes, toss and return to over for another 4 minutes. Repeat once more if some seems soggy. Remove from heat and reduce oven heat to 325F.
Bake Beef + Cook Onions + Mushrooms
- Add 4-5 cups of wine and enough broth to barely cover meat. Then add tomato paste, garlic, thyme and pork rind and stir to combine. Bring to a simmer on the stovetop, then cover and put it in the lower third of the oven.
- Check after 5 minutes and adjust heat such that the liquid is very slowly simmering. Cook for 3 hours, when meat should be easily pierced with a fork. Add additional wine and beef stock as needed to keep meat covered in liquid.
- When beef is fork-tender, take it out of the oven. Set a sieve over another saucepan in the sink. Carefully pour the contents into the sieve. Wash out the dutch oven, return the beef/bacon/vegetables to it, and add the onions and mushrooms cooked separately. Cover and keep aside.
- Simmer the sauce in the saucepan for a few minutes, skimming any extra fat. Let it thicken to a consistency that lightly coats a spoon. Add broth or wine if needed. Carefully taste for seasoning and add salt, pepper and thyme as needed. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables and simmer for a few minutes, basting the meat if not submerged in the heavenly sauce.
To Serve Immediately
- Ideally let it sit covered in a 200 degree oven to let flavors continue to meld and stay warm until you are ready to eat. Serve directly in the dutch oven at the table, with chosen accompaniment and thyme to garnish.
- Bur! If you are smart, you have done this a day before you plan to eat it. If so, allow to cool and when cold, cover and refrigerate.
To Enjoy the Next Day
- At least thirty minutes before you plan to serve it, put only the amount you expect to enjoy that evening (ie not the whole double batch you were smart enough to make, unless you have a lot of lucky friends or family joining you) into a dutch oven. Very slowly bring it to a simmer on the stovetop, or covered in a 200F degree oven, basting beef as needed in either method.
Notes
recipe
Oignons Glacés à Brun
Oignons Glacés à Brun
Equipment
- heavy bottomed skillet large enough to fit onions in one layer
- closable tea strainer or cheese cloth for bouquet garni
Ingredients
- 40-45 1" pearl or small white onions, peeled or fewer, if bigger onions
- 3 tbsp salted butter
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 1 cup beef stock
- salt to taste depends on butter and stock
Bouquet Garni
- 8 sprigs parsley
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 sprigs thyme
Instructions
- Get a glass of wine and begin the tedious process of peeling all those tiny onions! Boil water for broth, if using concentrated.
- Heat a heavy bottomed pot to medium, and when hot, add the butter. When bubbling subsides, add the oil. Then add the onions and sauté for about 15 minutes rolling them around so that they brown. Stir gently to keep skins intact, but also enough to brown evenly as much as possible.
- Meanwhile prepare your bouquet garni. We like to use a closable ball tea strainer.
- Add the broth and bouquet garni. Simmer for 45 minutes, covered, until the onions are tender, but have retained their shape. Most liquid will evaporate.
- Remove the bouquet garni and enjoy them as a side, or put them aside to put in your boeuf bourguignon or coq au vin.
recipe
Champignons Sautés au Beurre
Champignons Sautés au Beurre
Ingredients
- 1 lb fresh button or baby bella mushrooms
- 4 tbsp butter
- olive oil
Instructions
- Wash and dry mushrooms well in advance so that they are perfectly dry before cooking.
- If mushrooms are small, leave them whole. If they are larger, quarter them. If a mix, treat each differently, ending with pieces of relatively the same size.
- Heat skillet on high with butter and oil. When butter foam begins to subside, add the mushrooms, stirring to coat as much as possible. At first, the mushrooms will absorb the fat, then they will begin to brown, in all after about 5 minutes.
- When lightly browned, remove from heat.
Notes
Bonus
Videos
The OG, original cooking show is of course Julia Child’s The French Chef series which aired on PBS in Boston, Massachusetts in the 1960s. Below is the “Boeuf Bourguignon” episode which contains so many gems of info, in her signature style.
Later, she shared the TV stage with her fast friend Jacques Pépin. for Jacques and Julia Cooking at Home. Along with all the culinary tips, their collaboration and friendly sparring on their shared TV show, is also a treat to watch. The episode below has them making a pot roast and beef bourguignon.
Bon Appétit!